3 posts tagged with “bread”

  • Sourdough svengali: John Graham of Park Road Bread

    John Graham of Park Road Bread.

    I originally wrote this story for The Hamilton Spectator.

    I have a loaf of bread baking in my oven as I type.

    One thing is certain: it won’t be as good anything John Graham bakes.

    I call the proprietor of Grimsby’s Park Road Bread a sourdough Svengali. The man makes fermented flour work for him in an almost magical way. A way that eludes me.

    Maybe it’s all the precious language around getting the all-important starter, which is simply flour and water, to … start. Most people call the festering concoction that leavens bread a mother, which is enough to scare the bejeezus out of me.

    I don’t want to do wrong by anything named Mother, and yet, I’ve inadvertently killed many mothers by not feeding them enough flour, feeding them the wrong kind, or worse, forgetting to feed them anything at all.

    “Think of it like an army,” Graham told me when we met at his home earlier this summer.

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  • Peach Tree
  • From beer guy to bread man at Old Port Bread Co.

    My column, Eating Niagara, runs every second Wednesday in the St. Catharines Standard, Niagara Falls Review and Welland Tribune.

    It was a municipal election not long ago when one of the incumbents touted Grantham as the only ward in the city without a grocery store.

    Turns out, what I lack in frozen food aisles in my north St. Catharines neighbourhood, I make up for with a bread fairy.

    He’s known more officially as Ethan Lepp, proprietor of Old Port Bread Co. It’s a startup bakery out of Lepp’s home in neighbouring Port Dalhousie ward, specializing in spelt rounds, and sweet and savoury loaves that he’ll deliver to your door.

    The catch: you have to live in the city’s north end.

    “This area is pretty special to me,” said Lepp, a lifelong Port Dalhousie resident. “With all the problems with the development (in Port), I thought this area needed some home-cooking. Delivering it is a throwback … I thought it would be fun and it is because people are always happy when I get to their door.”

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  • Peach Tree
  • Hip, hip, hooray for hipster bread

    I made risotto for dinner on Friday night.

    With a radicchio begging to be used and a squash screaming at me that the end was nigh, I figured this was a good solution.

    I shredded the radicchio, diced my kabocha, chopped my onion and heated my oil. Things were going swell until I went to my pantry to discover I was out of arborio rice. I’m never out of arborio rice. But then I remembered my husband needed to rescue a damp BlackBerry a little while back, and my stash of short grains was sacrificed for the cause.

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